Owned and operated by the Skočić family, Camp Krka is perfect for the road-trippin’ camper. Be sure to chat it up with Momma Skočić. She speaks English and is a wealth of info. Photo by Nathan Van Schaik, USAG Bavaria Public Affairs.
ŠIBENIK, Croatia — Ask any German who Winnetou was and you’re bound to get a smile.
The fictional character Winnetou was a Native American hero based on the books by Karl May, one of Germany’s bestselling authors. Later, in the 1960s, the character was played by French actor Pierre Brice in western movies wildly popular in Germany. And those movies were primarily shot in Croatia. And it’s no wonder why.
As soon as you hit the southern panhandle of Croatia, the sky stretches out from left to right. The air becomes hot and dry. It’s like driving through Arizona. As an American it’s liberating. Camping these parts is worth the 10-hour drive.
As Americans, it’s easy to criticize European-style, and, more specifically, German-style camping. It seems that European campers have different priorities than their American counterparts. While Europeans often prize convenience and access to things like restaurants and showers, Americans often desire little more than the rugged outdoors. So while your German neighbor might opt for having satellite television on a camping trip, you might just want isolation, a compass and a hatchet.
But I say: not so quick! There is something to value in European camping. Consider the great land mass that is the U.S. Now consider squeezing a third of the American population into one state and you get an idea of the challenges posed to camping in solitude. Germany, which is made up of about 80 million people — and roughly a third of the U.S. population — is area-wise the size of Montana. All things considered, Europeans are quite civilized in their camping style.
And while not all camp sites in Europe advertise on the Internet, they are as plentiful as American convenience stores. Consider a camping trip to Croatia. Drive as far south as Krka National Park. Krka is about a 10-hour drive from Grafenwoehr. Stay the night a couple of nights. Head back north and spend a day or two near Plitvice National Park. Return home and camp either in the Austrian Alps or find a cheap hotel in Graz, Austria.
To reach the sweet spot of Croatia from Bavaria, take the 93 south toward Regensburg and head toward Passau, Germany. Alternatively, you can head southbound through Munich but you’re liable to hit heavy pockets of traffic. Make the decision just prior to departure with traffic updates at www.bavaria.army.mil/transportation.
Take the 93 south toward Regensburg and hop on the A3 toward Passau. From Passau, take the A8 into Austria all the way to the city of Graz.
Stay the night in Graz. Put simply, Graz is just a cool, friendly city. English-speaking DJs on the radios, great restaurants, bars and a chic town center. I’m not sure why I’m surprised by the friendly service industry here, but I can say that it’s different than what you might experience in the Oberpfalz.
From Graz, stay on the A9 through Slovenia and follow the signs toward Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. Stay on the A1 to the E71 toward Split — another great city to visit in Croatia. Take the exit to the D56 and follow the signs to Krka National Park.
A few notes about Croatia. Croatians officially refer to their homeland as the Republic of Hrvatska, abbreviated HR. You’ll see the HR adorned on things like bumper stickers. The country’s tourist website, for example, is www.croatia.hr.
Croatia is part of the European Union. The country, however, does not use the euro currency. Instead, it uses the Croatian kruna, abbreviated HRK. Ten euros will buy you about 75 kruna. Ten U.S. dollars will buy you about 70 kruna. Many restaurants and toll booths near the Slovenian border will accept the euro. TIP: Exchange euro for kruna early or withdraw kruna from an ATM.
Krka National Park boasts one of Europe’s best yet most unorthodox beaches. In fact, it’s a rocky “beach” is situated beneath this breathtaking waterfall. And yes Mr. Safety Officer, there are life guards on duty, so as American service members and family members, you are allowed to swim there. Photo by Nathan Van Schaik, USAG Bavaria Public Affairs.
GPS: Krka National Park, Lozovac, Croatia
COST: 110 HRK (about 15 euros) entrance fee per adult.
Krka National Park is a real gem. It’s family friendly, cheap and easy to transit. You can hike it or opt to ride a bus along the Krka River.
This national park boasts what I think is one of Europe’s best yet most unorthodox beaches. In fact, it’s a rocky “beach” situated beneath a breathtaking waterfall. And yes Mr. Safety Officer, there are life guards on duty, so as American service members and family members, you are allowed to swim there.
But what about camping? You have options.
GPS: Solaris 1, Tar-Vabriga 52465, Croatia
COST: 150 HRK (about €40) for one night for two people in one tent.
Solaris is a camping resort. I arrived here on accident. But for parents, it may be the best thing to offer kids. It boasts beaches, water parks, restaurants and bars. It’s pricey but its facilities are clean, convenient and state of the art.
TIP: Try any of the restaurants. They stay open late and open early. The restaurant in the middle of the campsite has a wood burning stove and serves piping-hot greasy and gooey pizza (paired well with cold beer after a long drive).
GPS: Skocici 21, Šibenik 22221, Croatia
COST: 180 HRK (about €25) for one night for two people in one tent.
Owned and operated by the Skočić family, Camp Krka is perfect for the road-trippin’ camper. Located just one mile from the national park, it offers everything you’d need: peace and quiet, a functioning toilet and shower and local food cooked by the Skočić family. Plus, it’s super cheap.
TIP: Chat it up with Momma Skočić. She speaks English and is a wealth of info. The family also runs a camp site even closer to the national park, but it’s barren. Stay here if you wish to sleep among sagebrush and buzzards.
GPS: The Plitvice Lakes National Park, Plitvička jezera 53231, Croatia
COST: 180 HRK (about €25) entrance fee per adult.
When I talk among my German buddies, I always get the feeling that they’re more well traveled than most Americans. But the same can be said about Americans living in Europe: You’ve probably seen more of Europe than most Germans. Well, add Plitvice Lakes National Park to your list. While I found it more touristy than Krka, you won’t be disappointed. The park is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It will shake your soul. Unfortunately, unlike its counterpart in Krka, you can’t swim here, legally.
Read Rick Steve’ review of Plitvice Lakes National Park
GPS: The Plitvice Lakes National Park, Plitvička jezera 53231, Croatia
COST: 180 HRK (about €25) for one night for two people in one tent.
The AC Korona campsite — about 2 miles from the national park entrance — is different from most campsites in one regard: it’s spread out and spacious.
TIP: Pick your own site to pitch a tent wisely. Scout out sites along the edge of the cliff. There’s no one there. Afterward, trek down the cliff and take a dip in the shallow pond. It’s clean. It’s cold. It’s refreshing. Watch out for the trout!